Red Neck Tips for the Covid Shutdown

Ursus

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Today, I went to the hardware store because I wanted to replace 2 of the faucets in my house. I am a cheap guy and so I didn't want to buy the wire brush tool to clean the outside and inside of the pipe. So, I tested some sand paper that I already had and found that of all the Grit ratings, 400 Grit is the best at cleaning and prepping your copper pipes. It does an amazing job, very quickly and it doesn't scratch up the pipe much at all. The finish is quite smooth and clean.

Then, I wanted to ream the inside of the pipe to remove any burs and make sure it was round and true. And I realized that I can use a tapered punch (that I already own) to do the job. So, I stuck my tappered punch in there and twisted it and removed the burrs I made during my copper cuts. It worked well, all things considered.

So, just thought I would pass those tips along to anyone who might be in the same boat as I am.

400 Grit sandpaper to clean the pipe
A tapered punch to ream and remove burrs.

Please share some tips as well.

Thanks
 
Is it really necessary to turn the water (I mean the outside hose) pipes off? It's a real pain in the ass for me since they are tucked behind a lot of shit. Can I get away with not shutting them off?
 
Insert the compression fittings on the new faucet into the existing shut off valves. Hand tighten plus an 1/8th of a turn. After that take your 400 grit paper and roll it into a tube, sandy side out. Then insert said tube into your ass and imagine it’s your brown boys dirty dick. I recommend cotton balls to dry your tears of joy. Happy plumbing!
 
Last edited:
Today, I went to the hardware store because I wanted to replace 2 of the faucets in my house. I am a cheap guy and so I didn't want to buy the wire brush tool to clean the outside and inside of the pipe. So, I tested some sand paper that I already had and found that of all the Grit ratings, 400 Grit is the best at cleaning and prepping your copper pipes. It does an amazing job, very quickly and it doesn't scratch up the pipe much at all. The finish is quite smooth and clean.

Then, I wanted to ream the inside of the pipe to remove any burs and make sure it was round and true. And I realized that I can use a tapered punch (that I already own) to do the job. So, I stuck my tappered punch in there and twisted it and removed the burrs I made during my copper cuts. It worked well, all things considered.

So, just thought I would pass those tips along to anyone who might be in the same boat as I am.

400 Grit sandpaper to clean the pipe
A tapered punch to ream and remove burrs.

Please share some tips as well.

Thanks
I hope you ran the shut off you installed prior to installing your fixture to get those burrs you probably dropped into the supply line to clog up your new fixture.

I use a tool designed to remove burrs....coincidently called a Deburring Tool. Since the burr comes off in a ribbon, it doesn't end up in your fixture. Works great on ABS and PVC too.

They make all kinds of cool things designed for plumbing...including flood insurance.
 
Is it really necessary to turn the water (I mean the outside hose) pipes off? It's a real pain in the ass for me since they are tucked behind a lot of shit. Can I get away with not shutting them off?
1) Not necessarily. But you're crossing your fingers it doesn't drop too low. If we had a few consecutive days of say -25°C the water in the exterior wall just before the outdoor faucet could freeze and split the pipe...instant flooding in the wall because it's now an open supply line in the wall.
There is a bleeder on exterior pipes.
The correct pre-winter prep is turn off the interior valve, open the outside one and leave it open, and then bleed the line. 2 min job plus the time to move your shit 😆

2) Yes but see above
 
Today, I went to the hardware store because I wanted to replace 2 of the faucets in my house. I am a cheap guy and so I didn't want to buy the wire brush tool to clean the outside and inside of the pipe. So, I tested some sand paper that I already had and found that of all the Grit ratings, 400 Grit is the best at cleaning and prepping your copper pipes. It does an amazing job, very quickly and it doesn't scratch up the pipe much at all. The finish is quite smooth and clean.

Then, I wanted to ream the inside of the pipe to remove any burs and make sure it was round and true. And I realized that I can use a tapered punch (that I already own) to do the job. So, I stuck my tappered punch in there and twisted it and removed the burrs I made during my copper cuts. It worked well, all things considered.

So, just thought I would pass those tips along to anyone who might be in the same boat as I am.

400 Grit sandpaper to clean the pipe
A tapered punch to ream and remove burrs.

Please share some tips as well.

Thanks
Next time hire a female Plummer
 
Is it really necessary to turn the water (I mean the outside hose) pipes off? It's a real pain in the ass for me since they are tucked behind a lot of shit. Can I get away with not shutting them off?

Your house water is under pressure. If you don't have a shut off valve at the faucet, then you have to shut it off in the basement (main source). Otherwise you would flood your house.
 
I hope you ran the shut off you installed prior to installing your fixture to get those burrs you probably dropped into the supply line to clog up your new fixture.

I use a tool designed to remove burrs....coincidently called a Deburring Tool. Since the burr comes off in a ribbon, it doesn't end up in your fixture. Works great on ABS and PVC too.

They make all kinds of cool things designed for plumbing...including flood insurance.

The Redneck way is to point the brass pipe downward so the burrs fall onto the floor instead of going into the pipe.

There is a redneck way for everything.

Masturbation is in fact, the redneck way to get sex without paying for it.
 
I thought we all agreed no more random posting in the review section?

Be real man...if people only posted reviews here, we would be lucky to see one posting a week. Where are your reviews? 🙂
 
Last edited:
anyone else notice that everyone’s profile pic got COF’d?

Edit- nvm I don’t see it no more
 
Your house water is under pressure. If you don't have a shut off valve at the faucet, then you have to shut it off in the basement (main source). Otherwise you would flood your house.
What? Water is under pressure? WTF! Since when?
 
The Redneck way is to point the brass pipe downward so the burrs fall onto the floor instead of going into the pipe.

There is a redneck way for everything.

Masturbation is in fact, the redneck way to get sex without paying for it.

Looks like you found a method that works in all circumstances. Brilliant!

Wish I could tackle those kinds of projects with the confidence you have!
 
1) Not necessarily. But you're crossing your fingers it doesn't drop too low. If we had a few consecutive days of say -25°C the water in the exterior wall just before the outdoor faucet could freeze and split the pipe...instant flooding in the wall because it's now an open supply line in the wall.
There is a bleeder on exterior pipes.
The correct pre-winter prep is turn off the interior valve, open the outside one and leave it open, and then bleed the line. 2 min job plus the time to move your shit 😆

2) Yes but see above
You can get away with wrapping the outside faucet with a microfibre cloth and then seal it with a plastic bag to keep it dry. This works well with copper plumbing bc the copper pipe conducts some heat from inside to the insulated faucet. The water in plastic plumbing will conduct heat as well, just not as efficiently.
 
Be real man...if people only posted reviews here, we would be lucky to see one posting a week. Where are your reviews? 🙂
Don't mind me, I'm just in competition with God to see who can make Ursus life more miserable.

For for the record, I'm not sharing anything here. Too many nutheads here
 
A tip I learned from my Dad, who was a plumber for 50+ years.
When soldering copper pipe, if there is any water dripping in the pipe to the place you are soldering the solder will not melt and flow as the spot will only ever get to 100 degrees C so long as there is any amount of liquid water. Try shoving a small amount of plain white bread into the pipe a couple of inches before you put the fitting, elbow, coupling, "T" or whatever on to be soldered. The bread will soak up the water drops and allow the joint to heat properly . When you turn the water back on, the water will dissolve the bread. Works great ! Nothing like creative thinking and experience in any trade.
 
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